Maximum Periodic Wave Run‐up on Smooth Slopes
نویسندگان
چکیده
منابع مشابه
Dispersive wave runup on non-uniform shores
Historically the finite volume methods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically a representative of Boussinesq type equations in view of important applications to the coastal hydrodynamics. Numerical results of the runup of a moderate wa...
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This paper re-examines existing wave run-up data for regular, irregular and solitary waves on smooth, impermeable plane slopes. A simple physical argument is used to derive a new wave run-up equation in terms of a dimensionless wave parameter representing the maximum, depth-integrated momentum flux in a wave as it reaches the toe of the structure slope. This parameter is a physically relevant d...
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[1] Wave breaking across the surf zone elevates the mean water level at the shoreline (setup), and drives fluctuations about the mean (runup). Runup often is divided into seaswell (0.04–0.3 Hz) and lower frequency infragravity (0.00– 0.04 Hz) components. With energetic incident waves, runup is dominated by infragravity frequencies, and total water levels (combined setup and runup) can exceed 3 ...
متن کاملPrePrint Repository Dispersive wave runup on non - uniform shores
Historically the finite volumemethods have been developed for the numerical integration of conservation laws. In this study we present some recent results on the application of such schemes to dispersive PDEs. Namely, we solve numerically a representative of Boussinesq type equations in view of important applications to the coastal hydrodynamics. Numerical results of the runup of a moderate wav...
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A one-dimensional hybrid numerical model is presented of a shallow-water flume with an incorporated piston paddle. The hybrid model is based on the improved Boussinesq equations by Madsen and Sørensen (1992) and the nonlinear shallow water equations. It is suitable for breaking and non-breaking waves and requires only two adjustable parameters: a friction coefficient and a wave breaking paramet...
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ژورنال
عنوان ژورنال: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
سال: 1989
ISSN: 0733-950X,1943-5460
DOI: 10.1061/(asce)0733-950x(1989)115:5(703)